Use a clean, stiff-bristled nylon brush for any hard to remove deposits of filth. Ensure that all contamination has been removed. Using clean workshop paper, clean the disc on both sides with brake cleaner. Check the brake fluid level, top up if necessary from a freshly-opened bottle. Pump the front brake lever initially it should feel soft but after a few pumps it should regain some ‘feel’. Check the tightness on any pad retaining fasteners. Tighten the caliper bolts with a torque wrench to the value given in the manual. Then refit the caliper and tighten the brake pad retaining pins. Do this by temporarily refitting the old pads, then insert a big screwdriver and gently apply pressure to push the pistons back inside.
When fitting new pads you’ll need to first gently push the pistons back. Make sure that you dry each of the pistons and that there is no water left in any of the crevices. An airline is the best method for blasting out every last drop of moisture, but if you don’t have one simply get to work with a towel. Once you’re satisfied the caliper has been thoroughly rinsed, it’s time to dry it. If there is still muck remaining go back a step and give the stubborn bits a second going over. Make sure that you thoroughly rinse between the pistons and also that the inside of the pistons aren’t harbouring a mini reservoir of scuzz. Rinse away the dirt with a hose or by using a sponge soaked in fresh, clean water. For the seriously hard-to-shift muck, deploy a scotchbrite pad soaked with bike cleaner. For stubborn deposits it will be necessary to re-apply the cleaner and repeat. Using a suitable nylon brush, agitate the cleaner paying attention to the areas that are inside the caliper, especially between the pistons. Be careful not to allow any cleaner to overspray on to the brake disc. The cleaner will penetrate the encrusted dirt and contamination. Moisten the caliper with the water and then spray some cleaner directly on the caliper and allow to dwell for a minute or so. Time to get soapyįill a bucket with warm water and add a bit of bike cleaner to it. If they need replacing, compare new with old to make sure they’re the right pad for your bike. If they’re still in good nick, it’s good practice to return them to the same side of the caliper when being refitted, so ensure you mark them up. Pull out the brake pad retaining pin (if fitted) then remove the pads and inspect their condition. Loosen the pad retaining pin, then undo the caliper mounting bolts and remove the caliper. If you have a twin-disc set-up, work on one caliper at a time with both calipers removed you run the risk of running out of brake fluid in the reservoir if the pistons are pumped out too much.
BRAKE DISK CLEANER FREE
Anti-corrosion treatments help a lot, but areas such as the brake calipers can’t be protected so need their own cleaning routine to keep them in tip-top condition and free from a build-up of road salt. If you’re riding throughout winter it’s always going to be a battle keeping your bike clean. If you’re a first timer, take your time and it should still take less than 90 minutes. Confident home mechanics should be able to complete this job in well under an hour. Over time, if you neglect your brakes, the pistons can seize in the caliper, which can increase wear on both the pads and the rotors.
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